Hawthorn origin

The hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata 'Paul's Scarlet') is a striking ornamental tree variety from the rose family (Rosaceae). Its botanical origins can be traced back to the two-stemmed hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata), a species native to Central Europe that occurs naturally in forests, hedges, and on forest edges. The hawthorn is not a wild variety, but rather a selective breeding from the 19th century that originated in Great Britain. More specifically, the 'Paul's Scarlet' variety was specifically selected and introduced into ornamental plant horticulture by the English gardener William Paul of Waltham Cross around 1866. It quickly became a popular variety, primarily due to its lush, double flowers and lack of fruiting.

This cultivar is sterile—it does not produce typical hawthorn fruits, making it particularly attractive for urban areas where fruit drop is considered a nuisance. The bright, crimson, double flowers appear in dense umbels from May to June and offer an intense color experience. However, due to their double structure, they are difficult for many insects to access, which somewhat limits their ecological benefits compared to the single-flowering varieties. Nevertheless, the dense, thorny growth provides valuable breeding and shelter sites for birds and small mammals.

The hawthorn grows as a small tree or large shrub, reaching heights of 4 to 6 meters and a spread of up to 5 meters. Its bark is gray to brownish and scaly with age. Its lobed, glossy, dark green leaves resemble small oak leaves and turn yellow to orange in autumn. It is a symbol of stability and floral splendor in the garden—robust, adaptable, and yet easy to care for.

Hawthorn care and location

The hawthorn prefers a sunny to partially shaded location with well-drained, nutrient-rich, and rather calcareous soil. However, it also thrives in normal garden soils, as long as it is not permanently waterlogged. A neutral to slightly alkaline pH is ideal. It easily survives dry periods once established, but should be watered regularly in the first few years to develop a strong root system.

Spring or fall is ideal for planting. The planting hole should be generously sized—at least twice as wide and deep as the root ball. The substrate can be improved with compost, a little sand, and calcareous garden soil. After planting, firmly press down the root area and apply a mulch layer of bark or leaves to reduce evaporation.

Once established, the hawthorn tree is very resistant to disease, heat, wind, and urban stresses such as air pollution or salt spray. It also thrives on hills or open areas exposed to wind, provided the soil is not too compacted. When choosing a location, make sure it has enough space to develop its crown, especially if you want to promote a harmonious growth habit.

Cutting hawthorn

Regular Cutting measures help maintain the health, shape, and flowering vigor of the hawthorn. Thinning can be particularly beneficial for the 'Paul's Scarlet' variety, which tends to have a dense crown. The ideal time for pruning is late spring or late winter, before new growth begins. It is important that temperatures are frost-free to avoid damaging the tree.

You should remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches. Training pruning is recommended for young plants to create a stable framework. Care should be taken to maintain a central leader and to ensure that the side branches are evenly spaced.

For older specimens, it's often sufficient to thin out every two to three years and shape the crown a bit. Keep in mind that hawthorn trees have strong thorns—therefore, gloves and protective clothing are strongly recommended. Always use clean, sharp tools to create smooth cut surfaces and avoid infection.

Fertilizing hawthorn

The nutrient requirements of the hawthorn are rather moderate, but a targeted fertilization in spring ensures strong growth and lush blooms. Use organic fertilizers such as compost, horn shavings, or cow manure. These also promote soil structure and soil life in the long term. For young plants, a slow-release fertilizer with a balanced NPK ratio can be helpful to support growth.

The first fertilization takes place in March or April, when the soil is frost-free. If necessary, a follow-up fertilization can be done in June. From late summer onwards, you should stop fertilizing so that the wood matures in time for winter. mulch layer protects the soil from drying out and at the same time acts as a natural fertilizer as it slowly decomposes.

On nutrient-poor soils, it's worth conducting a soil analysis every 2–3 years to ensure targeted fertilization. Avoid mineral fertilizers with high nitrogen content—they promote excessive leaf mass and weaken flowering.

Watering hawthorn

In the first three years after planting, you should Water regularly and deeply, especially during prolonged drought. After that, the tree is relatively undemanding, but even in old age, it benefits from occasional watering during very hot summers. Important: The soil should be moistened, but never permanently wet.

The baumbad watering bag is a practical and water-saving way to optimally care for young or newly planted hawthorn trees. The bag is placed directly around the trunk, filled with 75–100 liters of water, and releases it drop by drop over several hours. This ensures deep, even moisture penetration into the root zone – exactly where it's needed.

Thanks to the slow release, the water doesn't wash away or evaporate. Especially in urban areas with compacted soils or extreme heat, the tree bath bag ensures that the tree grows healthy and remains resilient. For larger trees, two or more bags can be combined.

It's best to water in the morning or evening to minimize evaporation. Avoid watering in the midday heat and check regularly to make sure the soil is still moist enough—especially during prolonged dry periods.

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